If a “local”
asked Peter Knottley how long a trip was going to
take, he would likely reply "the longer the better",
and then go on to explain that, if you are truly
enjoying yourself traveling, then, naturally, arriving
at your destination was always a bit of a
disappointment.
I used to
refer to Peter as a “Professional Cycletourist”.
He wrote about touring for the CTC magazine,
then called Cyletouring, and for the
weekly Cycling (under the
pseudonym “Randoneur”); he led tours; he published
articles in the travel sections of non-cycling
papers, he authored a book Cycletouring
in Europe... and he lived very modestly
in a small flat in Cheam.
Peter was an enthusiast
for keeping a log. He had a cyclometer when that word
meant a mechanical appendage containing little
numbered wheels attached to the front fork, and for
many years was able to report that he had “once again
managed to cycle every day of the year”.
I had met Peter as a
teenager growing up in London, had toured twice with
him, in the South of France (in 1976) and in
Northumberland (in 1977), as well as being involved
with him in various activities related to “traveling
under one’s own steam”. With his quiet charm,
his calm approach to life, and his living illustration
that happiness had little to do with accumulating
“stuff”, Peter had had an influence on me, and on
those around me, greater than that of many people with
more sound and fury.
In Spring
2005, taking about wet weather clothing with a
friend and reminded of the aphorism that opened this
essay, my thoughts turned to Peter and, on impulse,
I googled him. I found ... an obituary.
As I read the story of others whom Peter had
influenced, I went back to my copy of Cycletouring
in Europe, and gradually came upon the
idea of repeating one of the personal tours
described in the book as a kind of living memorial
to Peter.
The forums on the CTC
website put me in touch with some others who
remembered Peter, and with many who knew the Highlands
of Scotland and who shared their local knowledge with
me.
I don't know exactly when
Peter's tour of Scotland took place; it was certainly
earlier than 1973, the publication date of the book,
but might well have been many years earlier. I
had hoped that the Cape Wrath Fellowship records might
give a clue... but they did not. If any reader
can shed light on this, please contact me.
As I studied Peter's
route, it became clear that I would not be able to
reproduce it exactly. In a few places even the
roads had changed; for example, as Peter headed North
from Inverness, he was able to avoid the busy A9 by
taking “the ferry to Kessock and along to Conan Bridge
and Dingwall”. Since 1981 the ferry has been
replaced by the elegant Kessock Bridge, and the
A9 re-routed across the Black Isle, obliterating the
minor roads that Peter used. In other places,
although Peter's roads still existed, I was advised
that 21st Century traffic had rendered them quite
unsuitable for cycling. In addition, Peter's was
a camping tour, largely self-sufficient, and lasted 10
or 11 days; I was limited to 6 or 7 days and planned
to stay in hostels and Bed and Breakfasts.
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